veen on the road: favourite road trip eats.

I definitely ate well on my road trip. Perhaps a little too well, even. From seafood to Thai food to pizza to Indian, I stuffed myself silly on more than one occasion. Today I would like to introduce you to my favourite meals from the road.

NASHVILLE, TN

Hot chicken is a Nashville staple, and Hattie B's is the most famous and the most popular of all the hot chicken joints in the city. I have been trying to get there for ages, but I'm usually in town on the weekend, and the lines are often out the door with people waiting to order. Since Winkates had never been there, either, we decided to try our luck, and since it was 1pm on a Tuesday, we didn't have to wait too long. The chicken was totally worth any wait and hardship, and the sides just added to the deliciousness. Technically there are two locations, but if you're trying it out for the first time, I'm pretty sure you have to go to the one on 19th Ave. I stuck with the "Hot" option this time, but I would love to try their famous "Shut the cluck up!" on a future visit. Challenge accepted.

[small dark plate with mac-and-cheese and baked beans on the side. yes please and twice for dinner]

Also while in Nashville, I finally got to catch up with my lovely Little Sis Missy over drinks and dinner at Sambuca. Sambuca has a really fun, upscale atmosphere, but Missy and I managed to get a nice cozy table where we could chat and catch up over the last 6 years of our lives. They had a live jazzy sounding band who were just loud enough to enjoy but not so loud that we couldn't carry on our conversation. The lead singer especially had a great stage presence, and they played a nice combination of their own songs interspersed with rearrangements of popular songs. Food-wise it was also excellent. Missy and I shared one small plate each of the buca beignets and one other [I think the pork belly, but my memory is currently failing me], as well as the shrimp and crab dip. I ordered the filet for my main course while Missy opted for the Mediterranean vegetarian lasagna. All of it was great, especially the cheesecake sopapilla we had for dessert, and we spent nearly 3 hours enjoying the food, the drinks, the music, and especially the company. It's a little on the pricey side and a place to save for a special occasion, but it is definitely well worth a visit.

[cheesecake sopapilla for dessert at sambuca. even better than it looks]

CANTON, NC

A quick backstory: I have loved Bojangles' since I was a small child. When I was younger, there was a Bo on South 3rd Street, right as you entered Memphis from Mississippi, and we would routinely stop there on our way into town for some chicken biscuits or fried chicken, depending on the time of day. And then one day, without warning, it was gone. And it still remains one of the saddest moments of my childhood. Ever since, I have pined for Bojangles' and will make every effort to seek one out if I'm heading east. Luckily for me, Britney also loves the Bo and is not above planning a road trip around a visit. This specific location, right off I-40 in Canton, North Carolina, was of particular interest, because it still serves brown gravy with mashed potatoes, a staple from the original recipe and different from the white gravy that is now most prevalent. Since Bee knew about this phenomenon, we planned our drive from Knoxville to Fallston around a stop here for an early lunch in order to partake. And trust me when I say that it was well worth the planning and the phone call I had to make to determine exactly what time they began serving lunch. Oh, Bojangles'. You'll never know just how much I love you.

[just look at all that deliciousness and then try to tell me your mouth is not watering. just try. i dare you]

CAROLINA BEACH, NC

To wrap up Brit's Bach Beach Bash, we hit up Gibby's for brunch on Sunday before people started dispersing. It was a beautiful day - albeit on the hot side - and we got a table out on the deck so we could enjoy the fresh air and a view of the water. The catfish basket I had was pretty delicious, but the highlight for me was definitely the Bloody Mary bar. I have enjoyed many a Bloody Mary over the years, but I have never actually had the opportunity to make my own like this. I got a little happy with the Tabasco sauce and the pickles, both of which were to be expected, and I thought it turned out pretty well indeed. Overall Gibby's was a fun place to chill out and enjoy our final meal in town, the food was excellent, and the prices were very reasonable. And a super fun fact: you can dock your boat right at the restaurant and come in to enjoy your meal.

[bee with her bloody mary concoction]

GREENSBORO, NC

I already mentioned the Alexander, available only at the Corner Slice in Greensboro, but probably my favourite meal during my visit was at Fishbones. We definitely had a very memorable experience that none of us are likely to forget anytime soon -- our waitress forgot to put our orders in, so she bought us a second round of drinks to hold us over during our extra wait. It wasn't a huge deal, and she was extremely apologetic about it, so it was fine, and it just meant we had more time to enjoy our drinks and chat. I had the beer battered fish burrito in a bowl, and it was fantastic. It was a great mix of all the fixings, and the fish had a great flavour to it. Carrie and Stu both seemed to enjoy their meals as well, so I would call it a good night. The prices were reasonable, the drinks were good, and they have extensive options for anyone with a gluten intolerance, as Carrie does. Check it out if you're in Greensboro!

WINSTON-SALEM, NC

It's no secret that I am a Memphis BBQ purist. I love the dry rub, I love the ribs from Blues City Cafe, I love the pulled pork nachos from Central BBQ. I really do love it all. Britney and I have had a number of arguments about Memphis v North Carolina BBQ, so I knew I needed to try some while I was over that way. There is a big debate between "Eastern" v "Western" BBQ even within NC, with the differences having to do with the sauces. At Bib's Downton in Winston-Salem, however, their tagline is something along the lines of "Neither Eastern nor Western, Ours is Bestern" [I can't remember the exact wording, but that's fairly close]. I told the girl taking my order that it was first visit and my first experience with NC BBQ, so she suggested that I go for the Two Meat Combo in order to get the most out my visit. I followed her advice and got the combo with pulled pork and beef brisket, and I went with beans and mac-n-cheese as my sides. The pork was really good, but the brisket was just alright; I attribute that more to my lack of interest in brisket rather than it not being good. And the sides were excellent. More than anything I liked the laidback atmosphere of the place, particularly the musician seated at the front of the restaurant serenading the patrons. Two thumbs up for price and ambience, and the food was good, but I'm still a Memphis BBQ girl at heart. ps - Bib's was suggested to me by Lauren and Sam, my super awesome AirBnb hosts, and I have had numerous people comment on both Instagram and Facebook to tell me they love Bib's as well.

[two meat combo + beans, mac-n-cheese, and some hushpuppies at bib's downtown]

CHARLOTTE, NC

When I visited Hema Masi in Charlotte, she took me to a super cool spot right in the heart of downtown: Vida. We timed it perfectly and snagged a booth just before the Friday night rush hit, and we spent a few hours catching up over drinks, spicy salsa, our delicious dinners, and a mango crisp to top it all off. I ordered the shrimp jalapeno bacon tacos, and there are not enough great things I can say about my dinner. They were so very tasty and delicious, and the tacos + rice and beans were just the right portion after the amount of salsa I had already ingested. And on top of the tasty food, I loved the laidback atmosphere of the restaurant; despite it being dinnertime on a Friday night, we were never rushed or hurried through our meal, allowing us to enjoy our time and our food. Oh, and the dessert was pretty great, too.

[shrimp + jalapeno + bacon + tacos. life doesn't get much better]

CHARLOTTESVILLE, VA

I first ate at Littlejohn's 10 years ago on my first visit to Charlottesville, and through sheer good luck I managed to stumble upon it again this July. The last time I was there, on a Sunday afternoon following a home football game, it was crowded with hungover college students in need of something to soak up all the excess alcohol. This time, however, I was there on a Thursday afternoon in late July and nearly had the place all to myself. Despite the change in atmosphere, however, the food was still as delicious as I remembered it. I opted for the Bum Steer, one of their specialty sandwiches, and paired with a chocolate chip cookie and some cold water, it was unstoppable. Littlejohn's has been a staple for UVA students for ages, and I look forward to hitting it up again whenever I am back in town.

[this is what littlejohn's looks like when it's not filled with hungover college students]

Bodo's Bagels came to me as a recommendation from Sarah Leer, but as soon as I posted something about it, Kate Sherrard and Christina both chimed in with their love for the establishment. And what's not to love, really? A place that specializes in sandwiches served on various kinds of bagels? Sign me up. I ventured there for lunch on Friday before heading to Kilmarnock, and my choice of a BLT on a whole wheat bagel did not disappoint. It was delicious, it was filling, and it was fairly cheap. And best of all, despite being consistently busy, I was still able to snag a small table and read while I enjoyed my food without feeling like I was keeping others from sitting. It definitely seemed to be full of regulars, and I could see why. If I lived in Charlottesville, I would probably be there on a regular basis, too.

[blt on a whole wheat bagel. that's a healthy lunch, right?]

WHITE STONE, VA

On the Sunday morning following Pete's 30th birthday shindig, those of us still in the White Stone / Kilmarnock area gathered at Willaby's for a fun family brunch. Situated right on the water, you can drive or boat your way over for a delicious meal on the river. They offer a buffet for a fixed price that has eggs, bacon, and all your various breakfast wants, or you can order from their menu. They have Eggs Benedict to order, so obviously that's what I went with, and they were fantastic. More than the food, however, was the company of the Goodrich family and friends, and we had a great time chatting loudly and stuffing our faces. It was a great way to wrap up the weekend, and the yummy food was just icing on the cake.

[the sunday morning brunch group]

RICHMOND, VA

On the day I rolled into Richmond, Ansley and I were on the hunt for some food before she boarded her train back to New York City. As we strolled through Carytown, we saw lots of places along the way that looked good, but the one that seemed to grab both of our attentions immediately was Ginger Thai Taste. The sound of Thai appealed to us both, and after a roughly 30-second conversation, we headed in. It has a small but homey interior, and because of the odd time we were seated immediately. Ansley finished her noodles [not pad thai but the other one], and my Panang Curry was perfect for one meal that day and as leftovers on another. The food was fantastic, and we were both pretty proud of ourselves for our selection on the day.

One of my favourite memories of my time in Richmond was an impromptu Rhodes reunion dinner. About a week before I was to be in Richmond, I remembered that Amanda Godbold [Payne] and Ashley Diaz [Mejias] live in RVA. I messaged Godbold on the Facebook and mentioned that I would be in town, and in her response she said that Joel Harris, another Rhodes friend, would also be in town on Monday evening, so how about a full-on reunion of Rhodents? To which I heartily replied YES. Godbold suggested Union Market in Union Hill, and we had a fantastic time eating and drinking and chatting and enjoying some beautiful weather. We also enjoyed lots of entertainment courtesy of Godbold's daughter Harper and Diaz's two girls Belen and Maisy; both Will and Alex - the hubbies - were kept on their toes running after all the girls. As far as food went, I ordered half a turkey sandwich with half a chopped salad, and both were extremely scrumptious; I really shouldn't have eaten all of it, but it was so good that I couldn't help myself.

[love these fellow rhodents. and maisy too, even if she doesn't love me back]

I was on the hunt for food after my adventure at the Byrd, and I ended up getting food at Don't Look Back, a taco place in Carytown. My AirBnb hosts had mentioned it as one of their favourites, so when I spotted it across the street from the theatre, I made my way over. Since it was around 9.30pm or so on a Tuesday night there wasn't a large crowd, so I settled in at the bar and had a drink while I was waiting on my to-go order. I got two tacos - one shredded beef and one carnitas - traditional style on corn tortillas, and they were downright delicious. I am a big fan of tacos, and these were probably top 5, so if you are ever in the neighbourhood, be sure to check it out. Also, a full dinner for under $8? You can't really beat that.

CHATTANOOGA, TN

I am a very big fan of ice cream, and Clumpies in Chattanooga continues to be one of my absolute favourites. It's partly the nostalgia of eating there when I was in school, but it is also because the ice cream is just plain delicious and the people who work there are beyond friendly. Add to that the fact that Will was in the 'Noog at the same time, and ice cream is kind of our tradition, so obviously that's where I ended up on my first night back in town. The old John Deere seats have given way to normal white bar stools but otherwise not much has changed, and we had a very enjoyable time devouring our ice cream and catching up on each other's lives. My go-to is some combination of a scoop of butter pecan, one of chocolate chip, and / or one of cookie dough; they're pretty basic, but they're also pretty delicious.

[oh clumpies. my 15-year-old self cannot get enough of you]

During my time in Chattanooga, Mama Ellen and Papa Ken invited me along on their traditional Saturday evening outing to Mary's Lounge. Mary's is a dark, hole-in-the-wall bar on McCallie Avenue, and Ken and Ellen are part of a group who get together every few weeks for beer and catfish sandwiches. I happened to be in town during one such get-together, so I tagged along. I'm not big on beer so I opted for a Straw-ber-Rita, but the real winner of the day was the catfish plate. I got two huge pieces of catfish, fries, and bread, and it was amazing. I thoroughly enjoyed getting to meet some of the Ken and Ellen's friends, and I very much enjoyed my catfish.

When I finalized my travel plans and told Steph that I would be staying with her parents in Chattanooga for a few days, she responded with only one thing: GROCERY STORE TACOS. From then on, in the weeks leading up to my visit, every message or email I received from her mentioned in some way, shape, or form the necessity of making Mama Ellen and Papa Ken take me for grocery store tacos. According to Steph, they were delicious and not to be missed, and because we're all a little scared of her, we made sure to stop by on Saturday evening. The store is called Carniceria #7 [because number 7 is always lucky], and it's your regular Mexican grocery store that also has a taco bar in the back. I opted for the carnitas tacos, and they were finger-licking delicious. So if you ever find yourself in Chattanooga, make sure you try out some of those grocery store tacos.

[grocery store tacos are the best tacos]

Lupi's was one of my staples during my Baylor days, and I love stopping by if I have time whenever I am back in the city. Located downtown, it was a perfect place to stop by before heading to a movie or if we generally didn't have much else to do. This time around I went there for dinner on Sunday evening, and somehow I managed to miss the crowd. The pizzas are still awesome, as is the salad, and no matter how old I get, I'll never be tall enough to see the drinks fountain properly, but that is half the charm. In the 16 years that I have been eating there, it's not changed one bit, and for that I am eternally grateful.

While I was in town, I got to catch up with James Scott, one of my old Baylor classmates. He just moved with his wife and son to Glasgow for postgraduate work, but he was still in town when I was, so we managed to find time for a lunch at the Honest Pint. It's an Irish pub on the south end of downtown, and we had a very enjoyable lunch over some delicious food. We started with Pomme Tots, tater tots fried in duck fat and served with a trio of sauces. Finger-licking good is really the only way to describe them. We also shared some potato skins, which were equally good, and for the main course we each had a boxty, a traditional Irish pancake. I can't remember which one James had, but I went with the pulled pork, and it was fantastic. The interior of the place was very cool as well, and I hear mumblings that there is live music on the weekends. But be warned, I have a feeling it is a place that allows smoking in the evenings, so be prepared for that.

In other ice cream news, the Ice Cream Show was also a big hit. It's located right at the south entrance of the walking bridge, so I stopped by for a cone before taking a stroll across the river. The options are pretty much limitless, and at this point I really don't remember what I ordered, although I'm pretty sure chocolate with M&Ms is a pretty good guess. Whatever it was, it was delicious, and I probably looked like a giddy 7-year-old as I walked across the bridge licking on that cone. They have a great-looking patio as well, and judging by the people hanging out with laptops, they appear to have free Wi-Fi, too.

One of my favourite stops in Chattanooga was Grocery Bar in the Southside, where I had dinner with Joli and Yogi. It's pretty much exactly what it sounds like, a grocery store with already-prepared meals as well as a buffet that allows you to pick and choose what you want and then pay by the weight. It was great because we could each make our own plate of whatever we wanted, we could also pick up some chips and guacamole to share, and we could bring our own wine to enjoy on the patio. All of the food is prepared fresh daily, and it was all delicious. Joli had sushi while Yogi and I each prepared our own plates, and we had ourselves a nice little picnic, sitting and chatting for hours. Meals with Joli and Yogi tend to last for a while, and I loved not feeling rushed or like we were preventing others from being able to eat. It just opened in July, but I continue to see stories about it online, so it appears to be doing pretty well. And it was perfect for me, as it was about a 3-minute walk from Ellen and Ken's house. Definitely check this one out if you are in town.

And now we arrive at my favourite, Typhoon of Tokyo. Typhoon is about a 10-minute drive from Baylor and is a staple for all Red Raiders, especially seniors who have short lunch leaves or for boarders who need a quick meal before heading back to campus. When I was in school, they knew me by sight and over the phone, and I was well taken care of. Typhoon is essentially fast-food Japanese, hibachi steak [or chicken or veggies, etc] without the hibachi. It's cheap and it's tasty and the portions are huge, all perfect things for a boarding student surviving on $20 a week. And then there is the legendary white sauce, the yummy delicious sauce you can spread over your food or use to clean your pennies [who discovered that, I'll never know, but it's a bit of a legend]. Once upon a time I could finish the entire meal, but alas, my stomach is no longer 16 years old. Typhoon is my one constant staple, the place I will always be sure to visit whenever I am in town, and it is just as great today as it was when I first ate there in the fall of 1998.

[that's the stuff right there]

ASHEVILLE, NC

Mela was perfect timing for me. I was beginning to miss and crave Indian food by this point in my trip, and not one but two people recommended it to me in the 10 days before I arrived in Asheville. All signs pointed to me needing to try it out, so try it I did. And the entire experience was fantastic. The ambience was super trendy [note: not a place I usually go to, but I liked it], and I had a great seat at the bar. I read my book and enjoyed my mango lassi while I waited for my meal, a veg thali with extra roti on the side. And from the first sighting of my meal to the last bite I was able to force into my overly-stuffed stomach, the only word that kept coming back to me was "wow", running over and over in my head. I know I've used the word delicious so much at this point that it seems to have lost its meaning, but there are no other words to describe this meal. There was enough food to feed at least 3 people, and I was so stuffed after getting through about one-third of it that I had to walk for 20 minutes after dinner and do a 30-minute workout later that night before I could sleep. But trust me when I say that the discomfort was totally and completely worth it, and I would do it again in a heartbeat. Thank you, Avni Didi and Andrea, for the suggestion; you ladies know your food!

[i still sometimes dream about this meal]

The other double-recommendation I received was for Early Girl Eatery, a self-professed "Farm to Table Southern Comfort Food Experience". I went to Early Girl after visiting the Biltmore, and it was perfect: it was pretty empty since it was late afternoon, so I could put up my feet and relax with my book and some good food. Although the breakfasts [served all day] looked tempting, I ultimately opted for the "Meat & Two" option which allows you to choose one protein and two vegetables. I chose the grilled pork loin with sides of applesauce and macaroni & cheese. All were delicious, and I loved my meal. On my next trip, however, I'm definitely trying one of the breakfast options.

I realized just how well Britney knows me when I stepped inside Chocolate Fetish to have a look around. Chocolate Fetish offers case after case of homemade chocolates, something for everyone, and I could easily have stayed in there for days. The girl who helped me was extremely informative, and she talked me through the different chocolates on display to help me decide which ones I wanted. I filled up a box with assorted regular and dark chocolates, and I managed to bring the box almost entirely intact back to Memphis to share with my parents. And it was a big hit. Go to there if you're in Asheville, and then send some back to me.

[i'm pretty proud that i made it back to memphis with this box mostly intact]

My last meal in Asheville was at 12 Bones Smokehouse for some Carolina BBQ. According to Britney, 12 Bones is where President Obama eats when he's in Asheville, so obviously I had to check it out for myself. I went around 1pm, so the line out the front door wasn't too long, and I managed to snag a small table for myself as soon as I ordered. I had a pulled pork sandwich with baked beans and possibly green beans [hey, it's been 2 months, give me a break] as my sides. The sandwich was pretty good, as were the sides, and I enjoyed the mustard sauce more than I anticipated. And I especially loved the space -- it's in an open warehouse in the River Arts District, with tables inside or benches on a covered patio, so you can sit wherever you like.

NASHVILLE, TN

On my way back to Memphis, I stopped for a night in Nashville to break up my journey and to hang out with Lindsay, Steve, and baby Evelyn. Since it was such a short trip, I sent a message to my Nashville friends to come to the Jackalope Taproom for a drink. Lindsay and Evelyn went with me, and Natasha and Natalie - and later Catherine - met us there. It was a beautiful late afternoon, and we enjoyed the lovely weather out on the patio with a few beers. I love Jackalope for a number of reasons: I love supporting my friends, I love supporting local businesses, and I especially love the laid back feel of the taproom. If you find yourself in Nashville, make your way over there and have a beer [Red Rompo is my favourite]. And feel free to take a tour as well! [more of my thoughts on Jackalope here]

[friends enjoying the jackalope patio]

Looking back over this list, it's no wonder I put on a few pounds in those 5 weeks. But they were totally worth it.
xx

veen on the road: chattanooga's walking bridge.

One of my favourite spots in Chattanooga is the downtown Walnut Street Pedestrian Bridge.

[all lit up and glowing]

Built in 1891 as a roadway, the bridge was declared to be not structurally sound toward the end of the 1900s and was slated to be torn down. After some uproar from the local citizens, the bridge was saved and renovated into a walking bridge to connect downtown to the north shore of the city. Not only is it an easy and scenic way to get from one side of the river to the other, but it has helped to revitalize both sides, paving the way for new parks, restaurants, and shops to grow and thrive.

[view of downtown chattanooga by night]

The bridge - the world's longest pedestrian bridge, fyi - is used by hundreds and probably thousands of people each day: Chattanoogans and visitors alike use it for walking, jogging, cycling, and even taking their dogs for a stroll.

[and this is what it looks like during the day. just stunning]

I got to venture across the bridge twice while I was in town, once on Friday night after getting ice cream with Will and again on Monday afternoon after visiting the Aquarium. I loved getting to experience it both at night and during the day, because Chattanooga is beautiful at any hour, and it serves as a great reminder of what a gorgeous city it really is.

Oh, Chattanooga. How I love thee.
xx

veen on the road: the tennessee aquarium.

One of my most distinct memories from visiting Chattanooga for the first time circa 1996 or '97 was going to the Tennessee Aquarium. I was awed by it back then and was curious to see what my reaction would be like now, so I checked it out on my last day in town.

Sitting on the banks of the river and one of the focal points of downtown Chattanooga, the Tennessee Aquarium is a beautiful building that draws in millions of visitors from around the world each year.

[one of my favourite downtown chattanooga spots]

The exhibits have expanded so much in the 17 or so years since I last visited that there is even a new building. The basic admission ticket includes entrance to both the River and Ocean Journeys, and you can add on to your experience by adding extra features for a bigger adventure. I didn't do it for myself, but I can imagine it would be fun for families with small children.

I personally enjoyed just wandering around at my own pace, spending as much or as little time with each species. Both buildings are set up so that they are extremely easy to navigate: you ride an escalator up to the top floor and slowly wind your way back down to the bottom. It moves in a pretty linear fashion, so you never have to worry about choosing which way to go or worrying about missing out on anything. And there are various spots where you can sit and take a rest, if you need one. My favourite resting spot was on the top floor of the Ocean Journey building -- as you get off the escalator on the top floor, there are four or five rocking chairs [made of recycled materials!] that face the River. They looked so enticing that I sat and just stared out the window for a while before continuing on my explorations.

[i made friends with some turtles during my visit]

I loved my visit to the Aquarium - and spent far too much money in the gift shops - but I think my favourite might have been the penguin exhibit. I will be the first to admit that I know very little about penguins, and I really liked how the exhibit was set up to teach visitors interesting facts about penguins. As it's been a few months and a lot has happened in the time since, I have sadly forgotten most of what I read, but I still really liked how it was all set up.

Another great aspect is that you can break up your visit, should you wish. Your tickets are good for the entire day, and with the Aquarium's location in downtown Chattanooga, you can opt to grab a bite to eat or shop around before or after visiting the exhibits. The Aquarium very much wants visitors to partake in all the attractions downtown Chattanooga has to offer, and it seamlessly blends into its surroundings as though it has been there for generations.

if you want to visit:

• 1 Broad St, Chattanooga, TN 37204
• general admission for the River and Ocean Journeys is $26.95 for adults and $16.95 for children aged 3-12; if you want to add extra experiences, it will cost more
• give yourself at least 2 hours to visit the River and Ocean Journey exhibits; you'll need more time if you opt for the extras
• first admittance is at 10am, last admittance is at 6pm. buildings close at 7.30pm. split your visit up however you like, but don't go to late and have to rush through
• give yourself some extra time to wander outside the buildings, especially if you have small children who may want to splash around in the water

Aquariums are cool, and I'm pretty sure this one takes the cake.

xx

veen on the road: revisiting my baylor glory days.

One of the many reasons I love Chattanooga so much, in addition to the beautiful scenery, the awesome vibe, and the proximity to so many fun outdoor activities, is my love for my alma mater, Baylor School.

Baylor sits right on the banks of the Tennessee River and is, in my most humble opinion, the most beautiful school in the world [Rhodes is a very close second]. The red brick buildings, the hills and the chapel stairs, the quad, the lower fields, Baylor Lake...I love it all, and I still cannot believe I was lucky enough to get to go there for my final two years of high school.

[the view from the patio outside the library. can't beat that view]

Deciding to leave DeSoto and my friends in Helena to attend Baylor was an extremely difficult decision, but ultimately it was the right one for me. Baylor fostered an environment to help me succeed as a student, for me to get involved with service and leadership, and for me to develop the skills I needed to be successful at Rhodes and beyond. I made some great friends there, I joined as many clubs as I could, and I became a leader within my dorm, in the Community Service program, and on campus as a whole. In a lot of ways, I found my teenage niche, and I continue to remember my Baylor days with great fondness.

Whenever I am back in Chattanooga, be it for 2 days or an entire week, I love returning to roam the campus and rewalk some of the halls. My beloved dorm, Trustee Hall, is sadly no longer a dorm and is actually slated for demolition, but to my surprise and delight it was still standing on my recent visit. I lived in Trustee for both my years at Baylor, and I loved it. There were certainly tense moments, but it really did become home for me in those two years, and I still keep in touch with many of my dormmates to this day.

[sweet home trustee hall]

I know how cheesy it sounds, but Baylor really does hold a kind of magic for me. I grew a lot during my time there, and I learned a lot about myself. Stepping foot back on campus always takes me back to being 15 years old and entering campus for the first time, and no matter how long it is or how old I get, that feeling never diminishes.

In many ways, Baylor will always be home for me.
xx

veen on the road: the incline railway.

Following my visit to Rock City, I made my way back down to the base of the mountain and the beginning of the Incline Railway.

[one of the many views from point park]

[well hello there, favourite city. very nice to see you again]

The Incline Railway is a mile-long railroad line that runs straight up the side of Lookout Mountain, from St Elmo at the bottom to Point Park and other historical areas of interest at the top. It was originally built in the late 1800s as a faster way for visitors to get to the top of the mountain, particularly those interested in seeing sites from the Civil War.

[chattanooga with the river winding through it]

Although it is primarily utilized by tourists, the Railway is also used by residents of the Mountain, particularly during the winter months if the roads are icy and too dangerous to drive down. With inclines of up to 72%, the Railway offers some beautiful and staggering views of the city of Chattanooga and is widely referred to as "America's Most Beautiful Mile".

[civil war memorial of the "battle above the clouds"]

[and a hidden statue at the bottom of the mountain]

You can board the Railway at both the top at the bottom, but I think most people - myself included - prefer to begin at the bottom, ride up to the top and wander around, and then ride back down. For one, there is more parking at the St Elmo station, with a large lot available including spaces for RVs and other larger vehicles. Secondly, it just really makes more sense.

[looking down from the top overlook: the world's greatest slip-n-slide]

When I visited, on a Sunday afternoon in late July, I had about a 20-minute wait for a car to take me up. The ride up was awesome, because the city is revealed slowly until you finally get to the steepest part of the incline and suddenly it is laid out below you. Even for people who aren't quite as obsessed with Chattanooga as I am, I can imagine it's quite breathtaking.

[view of the city from the topmost overlook]

Once at the top, I walked the 3 blocks over to Point Park, paid the admission [$3, I think], and wandered in. Point Park was an important site during the Civil War, and today there are a few monuments and replica weapons to be seen. But most importantly to me, the park offers a little rocky overlook where you can sit and see the entire city below. I think most people thought I was crazy, but I climbed out a bit and just sat for about 30 minutes, reading my book and enjoying the views.

[another look at the railway from one of the overlooks]

There are a few other trails you can see, as well as a small museum, but I opted to just return to the rail stop and take a view pictures from the top overlook before getting back in line for the ride down to the bottom. And let me tell you, the view from that overlook was pretty stunning. Being inside the car is awesome, but standing at the top and looking out was even more fantastic.

[looking up from the st elmo station. love the "see rock city" sign that's peeking in from the side]

the details:

• the bottom station, where I would recommend parking and beginning your journey, is located at 3917 St Elmo Ave, Chattanooga, TN 37409
• admission is $15 round trip for adults and $7 round trip for children, but again, I would recommend looking into the Triple Play package that gets you into all 3 Lookout Mountain attractions
• at the top station there is a gift shop and small cafe where you can purchase refreshments; at the bottom station there were vending machines and an ice cream stall
• when you get to the top of the Mountain, walk the few blocks to visit Point Park. the views of the city are worth the admission fee
• the incline gets pretty steep toward the top. it's totally safe, but if you have problems with heights, be warned

Incline Railway: just one more reason to love Chattanooga.

xx

veen on the road: rock city gardens.

We have now arrived in Chattanooga, my favourite town and forever the home in my heart. I will spare you my poetic waxings on the wondrousness that is Chatt-town and tell you today about my visit to the Rock City Gardens.

[one of rock city's many funny quirks are the gnomes scattered throughout the gardens]

[pretty flowers in full bloom]

[loved the stairs over to the hanging bridge]

I was overly excited about going to see Rock City, because I have heard so many things about it but had never actually gotten to see it for myself. I visited on a gorgeous late Sunday morning near the end of July, so it was a little more crowded than I would have liked, but it was still pretty fantastic.

[loved walking across the hanging bridge. very cool experience] 

[love me some waterfalls]

Rock City Gardens is a stunning garden atop Lookout Mountain full of natural rock formations, beautiful overlooks and views, and even a few caves. The 4,100 foot walking trail takes visitors through the entire garden and even allows you to see 7 states - on a clear day - from atop the famous "Lover's Leap".

[the view from lover's leap. stunning]

[another from lover's leap]

The trail is super easy to follow, but there are lots of maps all over the place to help guide you along through the gardens. And near Lover's Leap there is a small cafe with tables where you can sit and enjoy the views for as long as you like.

[heading down to fat man's squeeze]

[fat man's squeeze. it's pretty tight through there]

[another pretty view from up on the mountain]

Toward the end of the trail is a cave that features brightly glowing scenes from a number of fairy tales, perfect for capturing the kids' attention. It can hurt your eyes a little to look at for too long, but they're pretty intricate and impressive.

[on the way to the cave] 

[the light inside the caves was funky]

[i told you it was crazy]

[lookout's thing with fairy tales is a little over-the-top]

[mother goose village. takes it to a whole other level]

To sum up, Rock City is pretty awesome. It's beautiful and scenic and relaxing and all of those things, and it is also great to see how well such an oasis has been preserved over the years. It's a wonderful homage to nature atop a beautiful mountain, and it is more than worth a visit.

plan your visit today:

• address is 1400 Patten Road, Lookout Mountain, GA [as you start to head up Lookout, you'll see plenty of signs directing you to get there]
• the hours change depending on the season, so be sure to check their website before you head up there for the current hours [and for special events!]
• admission to Rock City is $19.95 for adults and $11.95 for children. however, you can do what I did and purchase a Discount Triple Play that gets you into Rock City, Ruby Falls, and the Incline Railway for $48.90 for adults and $25.90 for children. I used my Rock City and Incline Railway tickets on the same day and have a year from the purchase date to use the Ruby Falls ticket. that's a solid deal if you ask me [Incline Railway post coming up this week, too!]
• give yourself at least 1.5-2 hours to walk through. it can take longer if there is a crowd, and especially if there are groups stopping regularly to take pictures, so err on the side of caution. trust me, you won't want to rush yourselves through those views

Now go forth and See Rock City.

xx

30 of 52: returning to my high school roots.

I may have only lived in Chattanooga for two years, but they were a significant two years in my life. I moved to Chatt in the fall of 1998 as a shy, naive 15-year-old, and I left in the spring of 2000 a little older, a little wiser, and a little more confident of my place in the world.

[view from ken and ellen's back deck]

I learned a lot during my Baylor days: I learned how to live with girls [I grew up with brothers]. I learned how to determine when showers were absolutely necessary [note: not before 8am classes in the basement of my dorm]. I [kind of] learned some study skills that came in handy when I went on to undergrad. I learned about high school rivalries and dorm pride. I learned the joy of daily service as well as the absolute humility of international service. I learned to get along with people from all backgrounds and countries and cultures. And I learned how to stand up for myself, how to articulate my arguments, and how my voice can have a positive impact.

[oh, clumpie's]

My family and I have long said that attending Baylor is the best academic decision I've ever made [thank you, Brother Bear], but it was so much more than academics. Not only did Baylor help me grow as a person, but Chattanooga did as well. I got to experience the joy of outdoor activities, participating in weekend rafting and trekking and camping trips. I was around during the final renaissance of Roosevelt and Coolidge Parks and spent countless weekends wandering the parks and the pedestrian bridge and the shops [mostly just Clumpie's]. It's a fantastic city for people of all ages, and I consider myself extremely lucky to have gotten to live in that environment.

[chattanooga at night. from the walnut st pedestrian bridge]

I have been back to Chattanooga many times since I graduated in June 2000, but most of my visits have been for only one or two nights. Because of that, I always return to Baylor's campus to say hi to some of my old teachers, and I always hit up Typhoon for a meal, but it's been a long time since I got to play tourist. The city has changed so much even in the last 5 years, and I had not gotten to walk around and discover all the changes.

[i live in memphis and will lives in nashville, so it only makes sense that we should meet up in chattanooga. right?]

When I was planning my NC-VA excursion for the summer, I knew I had to fit Chatt in there somewhere. Yes, it was slightly out of the way for the things I would be doing, but at the same time, I was desperate to get back. My last visit was in October 2010 for my 10-year-reunion, and I knew I wanted a few more days to be able to properly enjoy the city.

[grocery store tacos from carniceria loa #7. because obviously #7 is the best one]

Luckily for me, Ken and Ellen [Steph's parents] generously opened their home to me and told me I was welcome anytime. When I broached the possibility of staying with them for 4 nights, they didn't blink an eye, and when I showed up on their doorstep last Friday afternoon, Ellen had bananas and chocolate milk waiting for me. It was awesome.

[swing-a-long bridge at rock city!]

Really, all of Chattanooga was awesome. I got to catch up with a few old classmates. I visited Rock City and the Incline Railway [and have my Ruby Falls ticket for the next time I get back to town]. I toured the Aquarium and walked the pedestrian bridge. I walked my old stomping grounds and even got to see my old AP English teacher. I returned to favourite restaurants and even got to try a few new ones. I tried out the bike share program as well as the free electric shuttle that runs downtown [two thumbs up for both]. I had a fabulous dinner with Joli and Yogi, two of my absolute favourite people. And mostly I just wandered around, marveling at all the great changes that have taken place in my favourite city.

[heading up lookout mountain on the incline railway. super cool and pretty intimidating]

Chattanooga will always feel like home to me, especially when I'm in the States, and it is certainly on the shortlist for cities I'd love to live and work in again soon. It's such a beautiful, welcoming, wonderful city, and I cannot wait to be back again.

[looking out over my favourite city from point park]

[sunset down on the river]

[good old trustee hall. it'll always be home to me]

[tennessee river as seen from the library patio] 

[great way to get around downtown and the southside] 

[tennessee aquarium]

[making friends] 

[another stroll on the pedestrian bridge, this time during the daylight hours] 

[with joli and yogi. so great to see them]

[farewell lunch at typhoon. yep, that white sauce can still clean the pennies]

other highlights included: exploring Richmond; Rhodes Reunion in the RVA; visiting the Byrd Theatre; lots of museums; and pretty much everything in Chattanooga.

[beautiful amtrak station in richmond]

[strolling through part of the vcu campus]

[random murals near carytown]

[maisy and harper, future rhodents] 

[rhodes college reunion. love these lynx cats]

[just hanging out with my buddy edgar. we go way back] 

[$2 movie in a restored theatre!]

[agecroft hall, an old lancashire home that was stripped down, transported to richmond, and reconstructed. very cool]

[maymont, another beautiful southern home]

[maymont gardens. so lovely]

[waterfall at maymont. yes, these people had their own waterfall on their property. i can't make these things up]

[beautiful belle isle. i had a blast climbing over the rocks]

[the lee bridge from belle isle]

Those roots may have only had two years to plant themselves, but they planted themselves deep.
xx