veen on the road: the stuff i took.

Now that we've covered all the things I ate, the places I saw, and the books I read and listened to, how about all the stuff I took with me? Sure, why not. [note: this is my final road trip post, so we can all move on now!]

Here's what my trunk looked like when I left Memphis:

[5 weeks of my life, all packed up and ready to hit the road]

Since it was a road trip, I didn't need to worry about over-packing or baggage limits or anything like that, which was nice. I tried not to take too much stuff, but I gave myself some allowances, particularly when it came to shoes.

So let's get to it.

The Gear:

the rucksack. I have had this rucksack for 4 years, and I love it. It's survived living in India as well as excursions to London and Nepal with me, and it shows no signs of slowing down. I love that it has both front- and top-loading capabilities, so I can always easily access my stuff, and I like the numerous pockets and nooks where I can store things. Because I bought it at a place that had an Osprey oven, I was able to get the hip belt molded to my frame, so it sits perfectly on my hips.

the backpack. Last year I wrote about how my father pretty much bribed me into getting a new backpack and retiring my old LL Bean buddy. My ultimate choice was a North Face Surge II backpack, and I have really liked it. It's got a laptop compartment and padded shoulder straps, so it sits really comfortably with my computer, and I love all the tiny pockets and hidden compartments. There's a spot for pretty much everything, and it has been great both as a laptop bag and as a day pack to wander around with. [note: mine is yellow, but it doesn't seem to be available on Amazon, so the link is to my other favourite colour and possibly the one I would have chosen had it been in stock when I purchased mine]

the purse. I ordered this crossbody purse last December as an early Christmas present for myself and have loved it. I needed a nicer bag that I could also use everyday, and because I tend to sling my bags around, I needed one with a zipper so that I don't lose anything. This one gets extra points for being big enough to fit a book and for having an inner zip closure as well as two small pockets inside, perfect for my keys and my phone. And that's not including another zip pocket on the outside as well as an open pocket on the opposite side. It's held up well with everything I've thrown its way, and it looks like it will be around for a little while longer. I'm thinking of getting a more casual one so that I can trade them out from time-to-time and have put this one on my Wish List; I like the bohemian look of it, but I'm having trouble deciding on which pattern I prefer. [note: I ordered the second one, and I already love it. it's very similar to the one I already had but is much more casual]

the all-purpose tote. This was an impulse buy last year when we were going to India, and I couldn't help myself. I'm such a sucker for tote bags that can then be folded up, and this was no exception, and it has turned out to be even more useful than I anticipated. I use it for overnight or weekend road trips, and it was a great carry-all for this trip. I loaded pretty much all of my extra things into it: toiletries, extra books, extra chargers and batteries, running paraphernalia, first aid stuff...you name it, it probably ended up in here at some point. It's huge, it can hold a surprising amount of stuff, and it's pretty comfortable to carry. I have loved it, and my mother has even used it for a few trips herself, so it comes highly recommended from the Rangaswami household.

the everyday tote. I bought this on a whim from Old Navy in early summer thinking it would be a good beach bag / everyday bag for my trip. My main train of thought was that it would be good for Britney's bachelorette weekend at the beach and for day trips when I wanted to carry my big camera with me. It served me well for both occasions and is still in great condition. It's got nice strong straps, which earns it an automatic two-thumbs up from me.

The Clothes:
[note: sure, I took too many clothes. if you're pressed for space or weight, you could definitely take out a few everyday t-shirts, one or two of the singlets, and possibly even a pair of jeans. to each his - or her - own]

the everyday t-shirts / sleeveless tops. If memory serves correctly, I think I took around 7 cotton v-necks, 2 or 3 cotton crew necks, and 3 sleeveless shirts. I could have taken fewer, but they don't take up much space and it was nice to have the extras when I had to stretch between laundry days.

the tank tops. one navy, one blue, one tan. they don't take up space in your luggage, and they go with everything.

the nice shirts. I took one nice sleeveless shirt, one nice short-sleeve shirt, and two nice tunics, and that was pretty much enough for the purposes of my trip.

the shorts. one denim, one black, one green, and one pair of denim bermudas. it was nice to have the variety depending on the weather and what I was doing on a given day.

the jeans. two pairs, one denim and one black. more than enough, especially since it was summer.

the cardigan. this has become my go-to cardigan, and I have gotten so much wear out of it. it's super comfortable, and it's warm without being hot, so it's perfect for the summer when it's hot outside but often chilly in restaurants or museums. and the teal colour goes with most of my wardrobe.

the skirts. one denim mini and one knee-length jersey material. they went with everything I packed and were great alternatives if I didn't feel like wearing shorts but it was too hot to wear jeans.

the rain jacket. I love that it can be a shell during the warmer months but can zip a fleece in during winter. it came in very handy during some of the super rainy days I encountered.

the running capris. I took my two most comfortable pairs, and that was more than enough.

the running singlets. I took 3 or 4, and I picked up 2 at the Nike outlet store in Charlotte. too many considering how many times I actually ran, but I'm glad I had them with me.

the workout shorts. two pair. they were great for workouts and for just bumming around in.

the t-shirts. 4 short-sleeves and 1 long-sleeve. I mostly used them to sleep in, but it was nice to have some extras just in case. and the long-sleeve came in handy for my drive on the Blue Ridge Parkway and for my stay in Kilmarnock when we were on the water and evenings were chilly.

the boxers. 3 pairs for sleeping.

the socks. 4 pair of running / workout socks -- I like the ones with a little extra padding, since they add some cushion for my hopelessly flat feet.

the swimsuit + cover-up. I knew I would have at least 2 opportunities for swimming, one during Britney's bachelorette weekend and one at Pete's birthday party, but since they were far enough apart, I only took one swimsuit with me, which was plenty. I picked up a cover-up from Target the week before I left for about $10, and it served me well.

the underwear / bras / sports bras. pretty self-explanatory. I took a lot of underwear so that I wouldn't need to scramble to do laundry [I did laundry 3 times in the 5 weeks: once at Stu and Carrie's in Greensboro, once at Dada and Baa's in Charlotte, and once at Ken and Ellen's in Chattanooga; I was only desperate going into Chattanooga, but otherwise I was fine].

the anarkali + bridesmaid dress. these were taken specifically for the wedding weekend, so they stayed in the car the entire time except for my time in Chattanooga and when I got to Leicester for the wedding. since they both hung in the backseat, they were not an intrusion.

The Shoes:
[note: I know I took far too many shoes, but the last two in the list were pretty much strictly because of the wedding; if not for that, I would have left them both at home. the hiking shoes were also unnecessary; if I had it to do over again, I would take my Chacos instead, since they're much more versatile]

the toms. these are probably my most-worn shoes, and one of my all-time favourites. they're so comfortable, especially for long walks or strolls, and they go with pretty much anything. I've worn one pair down to the bone and have another two that I alternate between. and I love the one-for-one model.

the running shoes. when I was in the market for new running shoes back in April, I went to Breakaway, our local running store, and got the guys there to suggest a shoe for me. because of the flat feet, I need shoes that have extra support and a low arch, and these have been great. I just got new insoles for them, and I feel like I have a brand new pair of shoes!

the birkenstocks. the best buy of the summer. I've had a pair of Birkenstock clogs for 16 years, and although they're worn down, I still wear them every now and then during the winter. at the beginning of the summer, though, I decided it might be time for a new pair, particularly a pair of comfy sandals that would be good for long days of walking [I know I harp on my flat feet a lot, but they hurt when I'm on them for a long time]. These came in so handy on my trip, and I wore them nearly every day on my excursions. They're so comfortable, they've got great support, and even after they're broken in they don't look worn-down. And since they're blue, they match nearly everything I own.

the flip flops. I'll be honest, these weren't my favourite ever pair of flip flops, and I didn't wear them too much, but they're really not that bad. they were fine for short amounts of time, but if I wore them for too long they would start to hurt my heels [that's flat feet for you].

the other flip flops. perfect for the beach, or for padding around a home with cold floors. so versatile, and so comfortable.

the flats. these are my basic black flats that I wear through every winter and then replace in the spring. they're really comfortable, and they don't pinch my feet, so I like them a lot. I'll be honest, though: I only wore them once or twice on my trip, but that was mostly because I didn't really go out for nice dinners or things where I couldn't wear sandals.

the hiking shoes. an unnecessary addition. the only time I wore them was on my drive up the Blue Ridge Parkway, and even then I really would have been fine with just my running shoes. if I had it to do all over again, I would have switched these out for my Chacos, as those would have been good for my daily activities as well.

the rain boots. I chose to throw these in the trunk since I was driving, and I'm so glad I did. even though I probably only wore them 3 times, they were definitely worth carrying, especially when the monsoon followed me to Charlottesville and Monticello. I bought these when I was living in Little Rock, and they have proved to be a great purchase; I like that they're not standard wellies and could be worn as part of my "business casual" dress code in grad school. [note: mine are a slightly different design than those in the link, but they're the same brand and quite similar]

the nice sandals. again, only worn twice, but they were necessary to go with the Anarkali for Britney and Brandon's rehearsal dinner. and then I promptly forgot them at the Yesterday Spaces farmhouse, so they are now living in Knoxville until I can reclaim them. but they came in handy.

the wedges. only taken to be worn for the wedding and remained in my trunk for most of the journey.

The Tech:

the laptop. because I was still doing work for The Wandering Samaritan for the first few weeks of my trip, I needed the computer. and it was great for responding to emails, booking various things, and watching Netflix.

the kindle. so that I could carry as many books as I wanted with me.

the camera. to take pretty pictures along my journey.

the other camera [a sony cybershot from 2009]. because sometimes that giant camera can be a hindrance, and this one fits easily into a handbag or even sometimes a pocket.

the phone. for obvious reasons: phone calls, messages, Google Maps, pictures, and playing Bingo.

the chargers / batteries.

The Toiletries:
[note: I feel like these are pretty self-explanatory, so I won't go into details. just thought I'd list them out]

the body wash.
the shampoo + conditioner.
the razor.
the deodorant / body glide.
the toothbrush / toothpaste / floss / mouthwash.
the q-tips.

The First-Aid Kit:
I am generally a little accident-prone anyway, but it's also always a good idea to travel with a few key first-aid items in case anything happens along the way. Luckily I didn't need anything more than this during my trip, but you can add or take away items as you deem fit.

the band-aids. these are my favourites because they are waterproof and because they come in Batman and Strawberry Shortcake patterns.

the eye drops. because my eyes don't produce enough tears and so become super dry and bloodshot if I don't get enough sleep or have been driving for too long.

the painkillers. Aleve for cramps and Advil for general aches and pains.

The Running Gear:
I enjoy running, but all the accoutrements that come along with it are kind of crazy.

the armband. I am not one to carry my phone when I run, and I like this armband a lot because my phone fits in with its case on. I also like the velcro strap, so I can adjust it based on how many layers I'm wearing.

the earbuds. I lost my previous pair of running earphones, so I made do with my Apple earbuds. I like them for the volume control, but I dislike them because they fall out of my ears a lot. I have since gotten a new pair, but I'm not entirely pleased with them, either. If anyone out there has suggestions, I'm all ears.

the body glide. Katie Walsh introduced me to this last year when I was training for my first half marathon, and I have not looked back. it really helps prevent chafing, and I am still using the one I bought in August of 2013, so it's well worth it.

The Books:
I carried three paper books with me - On the Road, which I didn't even open, This is Where I Leave You, which I did, and Americanah, which I began at the end of my journey - and then read the rest on my Kindle or listened to them on my Audible app while driving.

The Gifts:
As a thank you for all of my various hosts, I carried with me bags of "Memphis Mix" popcorn from Sweet Noshings. I knew all the Rhodents would especially appreciate it, and I knew it would be a good gift for airbnb hosts as well. It really didn't take up much space, it made the car smell like popcorn for a month, and because I bought 10 bags, I got one more bag for free. Love me some Sweet Noshings.

And there you have it, everything I carried with me on my summer road trip.
xx

veen on the road: favourite road trip eats.

I definitely ate well on my road trip. Perhaps a little too well, even. From seafood to Thai food to pizza to Indian, I stuffed myself silly on more than one occasion. Today I would like to introduce you to my favourite meals from the road.

NASHVILLE, TN

Hot chicken is a Nashville staple, and Hattie B's is the most famous and the most popular of all the hot chicken joints in the city. I have been trying to get there for ages, but I'm usually in town on the weekend, and the lines are often out the door with people waiting to order. Since Winkates had never been there, either, we decided to try our luck, and since it was 1pm on a Tuesday, we didn't have to wait too long. The chicken was totally worth any wait and hardship, and the sides just added to the deliciousness. Technically there are two locations, but if you're trying it out for the first time, I'm pretty sure you have to go to the one on 19th Ave. I stuck with the "Hot" option this time, but I would love to try their famous "Shut the cluck up!" on a future visit. Challenge accepted.

[small dark plate with mac-and-cheese and baked beans on the side. yes please and twice for dinner]

Also while in Nashville, I finally got to catch up with my lovely Little Sis Missy over drinks and dinner at Sambuca. Sambuca has a really fun, upscale atmosphere, but Missy and I managed to get a nice cozy table where we could chat and catch up over the last 6 years of our lives. They had a live jazzy sounding band who were just loud enough to enjoy but not so loud that we couldn't carry on our conversation. The lead singer especially had a great stage presence, and they played a nice combination of their own songs interspersed with rearrangements of popular songs. Food-wise it was also excellent. Missy and I shared one small plate each of the buca beignets and one other [I think the pork belly, but my memory is currently failing me], as well as the shrimp and crab dip. I ordered the filet for my main course while Missy opted for the Mediterranean vegetarian lasagna. All of it was great, especially the cheesecake sopapilla we had for dessert, and we spent nearly 3 hours enjoying the food, the drinks, the music, and especially the company. It's a little on the pricey side and a place to save for a special occasion, but it is definitely well worth a visit.

[cheesecake sopapilla for dessert at sambuca. even better than it looks]

CANTON, NC

A quick backstory: I have loved Bojangles' since I was a small child. When I was younger, there was a Bo on South 3rd Street, right as you entered Memphis from Mississippi, and we would routinely stop there on our way into town for some chicken biscuits or fried chicken, depending on the time of day. And then one day, without warning, it was gone. And it still remains one of the saddest moments of my childhood. Ever since, I have pined for Bojangles' and will make every effort to seek one out if I'm heading east. Luckily for me, Britney also loves the Bo and is not above planning a road trip around a visit. This specific location, right off I-40 in Canton, North Carolina, was of particular interest, because it still serves brown gravy with mashed potatoes, a staple from the original recipe and different from the white gravy that is now most prevalent. Since Bee knew about this phenomenon, we planned our drive from Knoxville to Fallston around a stop here for an early lunch in order to partake. And trust me when I say that it was well worth the planning and the phone call I had to make to determine exactly what time they began serving lunch. Oh, Bojangles'. You'll never know just how much I love you.

[just look at all that deliciousness and then try to tell me your mouth is not watering. just try. i dare you]

CAROLINA BEACH, NC

To wrap up Brit's Bach Beach Bash, we hit up Gibby's for brunch on Sunday before people started dispersing. It was a beautiful day - albeit on the hot side - and we got a table out on the deck so we could enjoy the fresh air and a view of the water. The catfish basket I had was pretty delicious, but the highlight for me was definitely the Bloody Mary bar. I have enjoyed many a Bloody Mary over the years, but I have never actually had the opportunity to make my own like this. I got a little happy with the Tabasco sauce and the pickles, both of which were to be expected, and I thought it turned out pretty well indeed. Overall Gibby's was a fun place to chill out and enjoy our final meal in town, the food was excellent, and the prices were very reasonable. And a super fun fact: you can dock your boat right at the restaurant and come in to enjoy your meal.

[bee with her bloody mary concoction]

GREENSBORO, NC

I already mentioned the Alexander, available only at the Corner Slice in Greensboro, but probably my favourite meal during my visit was at Fishbones. We definitely had a very memorable experience that none of us are likely to forget anytime soon -- our waitress forgot to put our orders in, so she bought us a second round of drinks to hold us over during our extra wait. It wasn't a huge deal, and she was extremely apologetic about it, so it was fine, and it just meant we had more time to enjoy our drinks and chat. I had the beer battered fish burrito in a bowl, and it was fantastic. It was a great mix of all the fixings, and the fish had a great flavour to it. Carrie and Stu both seemed to enjoy their meals as well, so I would call it a good night. The prices were reasonable, the drinks were good, and they have extensive options for anyone with a gluten intolerance, as Carrie does. Check it out if you're in Greensboro!

WINSTON-SALEM, NC

It's no secret that I am a Memphis BBQ purist. I love the dry rub, I love the ribs from Blues City Cafe, I love the pulled pork nachos from Central BBQ. I really do love it all. Britney and I have had a number of arguments about Memphis v North Carolina BBQ, so I knew I needed to try some while I was over that way. There is a big debate between "Eastern" v "Western" BBQ even within NC, with the differences having to do with the sauces. At Bib's Downton in Winston-Salem, however, their tagline is something along the lines of "Neither Eastern nor Western, Ours is Bestern" [I can't remember the exact wording, but that's fairly close]. I told the girl taking my order that it was first visit and my first experience with NC BBQ, so she suggested that I go for the Two Meat Combo in order to get the most out my visit. I followed her advice and got the combo with pulled pork and beef brisket, and I went with beans and mac-n-cheese as my sides. The pork was really good, but the brisket was just alright; I attribute that more to my lack of interest in brisket rather than it not being good. And the sides were excellent. More than anything I liked the laidback atmosphere of the place, particularly the musician seated at the front of the restaurant serenading the patrons. Two thumbs up for price and ambience, and the food was good, but I'm still a Memphis BBQ girl at heart. ps - Bib's was suggested to me by Lauren and Sam, my super awesome AirBnb hosts, and I have had numerous people comment on both Instagram and Facebook to tell me they love Bib's as well.

[two meat combo + beans, mac-n-cheese, and some hushpuppies at bib's downtown]

CHARLOTTE, NC

When I visited Hema Masi in Charlotte, she took me to a super cool spot right in the heart of downtown: Vida. We timed it perfectly and snagged a booth just before the Friday night rush hit, and we spent a few hours catching up over drinks, spicy salsa, our delicious dinners, and a mango crisp to top it all off. I ordered the shrimp jalapeno bacon tacos, and there are not enough great things I can say about my dinner. They were so very tasty and delicious, and the tacos + rice and beans were just the right portion after the amount of salsa I had already ingested. And on top of the tasty food, I loved the laidback atmosphere of the restaurant; despite it being dinnertime on a Friday night, we were never rushed or hurried through our meal, allowing us to enjoy our time and our food. Oh, and the dessert was pretty great, too.

[shrimp + jalapeno + bacon + tacos. life doesn't get much better]

CHARLOTTESVILLE, VA

I first ate at Littlejohn's 10 years ago on my first visit to Charlottesville, and through sheer good luck I managed to stumble upon it again this July. The last time I was there, on a Sunday afternoon following a home football game, it was crowded with hungover college students in need of something to soak up all the excess alcohol. This time, however, I was there on a Thursday afternoon in late July and nearly had the place all to myself. Despite the change in atmosphere, however, the food was still as delicious as I remembered it. I opted for the Bum Steer, one of their specialty sandwiches, and paired with a chocolate chip cookie and some cold water, it was unstoppable. Littlejohn's has been a staple for UVA students for ages, and I look forward to hitting it up again whenever I am back in town.

[this is what littlejohn's looks like when it's not filled with hungover college students]

Bodo's Bagels came to me as a recommendation from Sarah Leer, but as soon as I posted something about it, Kate Sherrard and Christina both chimed in with their love for the establishment. And what's not to love, really? A place that specializes in sandwiches served on various kinds of bagels? Sign me up. I ventured there for lunch on Friday before heading to Kilmarnock, and my choice of a BLT on a whole wheat bagel did not disappoint. It was delicious, it was filling, and it was fairly cheap. And best of all, despite being consistently busy, I was still able to snag a small table and read while I enjoyed my food without feeling like I was keeping others from sitting. It definitely seemed to be full of regulars, and I could see why. If I lived in Charlottesville, I would probably be there on a regular basis, too.

[blt on a whole wheat bagel. that's a healthy lunch, right?]

WHITE STONE, VA

On the Sunday morning following Pete's 30th birthday shindig, those of us still in the White Stone / Kilmarnock area gathered at Willaby's for a fun family brunch. Situated right on the water, you can drive or boat your way over for a delicious meal on the river. They offer a buffet for a fixed price that has eggs, bacon, and all your various breakfast wants, or you can order from their menu. They have Eggs Benedict to order, so obviously that's what I went with, and they were fantastic. More than the food, however, was the company of the Goodrich family and friends, and we had a great time chatting loudly and stuffing our faces. It was a great way to wrap up the weekend, and the yummy food was just icing on the cake.

[the sunday morning brunch group]

RICHMOND, VA

On the day I rolled into Richmond, Ansley and I were on the hunt for some food before she boarded her train back to New York City. As we strolled through Carytown, we saw lots of places along the way that looked good, but the one that seemed to grab both of our attentions immediately was Ginger Thai Taste. The sound of Thai appealed to us both, and after a roughly 30-second conversation, we headed in. It has a small but homey interior, and because of the odd time we were seated immediately. Ansley finished her noodles [not pad thai but the other one], and my Panang Curry was perfect for one meal that day and as leftovers on another. The food was fantastic, and we were both pretty proud of ourselves for our selection on the day.

One of my favourite memories of my time in Richmond was an impromptu Rhodes reunion dinner. About a week before I was to be in Richmond, I remembered that Amanda Godbold [Payne] and Ashley Diaz [Mejias] live in RVA. I messaged Godbold on the Facebook and mentioned that I would be in town, and in her response she said that Joel Harris, another Rhodes friend, would also be in town on Monday evening, so how about a full-on reunion of Rhodents? To which I heartily replied YES. Godbold suggested Union Market in Union Hill, and we had a fantastic time eating and drinking and chatting and enjoying some beautiful weather. We also enjoyed lots of entertainment courtesy of Godbold's daughter Harper and Diaz's two girls Belen and Maisy; both Will and Alex - the hubbies - were kept on their toes running after all the girls. As far as food went, I ordered half a turkey sandwich with half a chopped salad, and both were extremely scrumptious; I really shouldn't have eaten all of it, but it was so good that I couldn't help myself.

[love these fellow rhodents. and maisy too, even if she doesn't love me back]

I was on the hunt for food after my adventure at the Byrd, and I ended up getting food at Don't Look Back, a taco place in Carytown. My AirBnb hosts had mentioned it as one of their favourites, so when I spotted it across the street from the theatre, I made my way over. Since it was around 9.30pm or so on a Tuesday night there wasn't a large crowd, so I settled in at the bar and had a drink while I was waiting on my to-go order. I got two tacos - one shredded beef and one carnitas - traditional style on corn tortillas, and they were downright delicious. I am a big fan of tacos, and these were probably top 5, so if you are ever in the neighbourhood, be sure to check it out. Also, a full dinner for under $8? You can't really beat that.

CHATTANOOGA, TN

I am a very big fan of ice cream, and Clumpies in Chattanooga continues to be one of my absolute favourites. It's partly the nostalgia of eating there when I was in school, but it is also because the ice cream is just plain delicious and the people who work there are beyond friendly. Add to that the fact that Will was in the 'Noog at the same time, and ice cream is kind of our tradition, so obviously that's where I ended up on my first night back in town. The old John Deere seats have given way to normal white bar stools but otherwise not much has changed, and we had a very enjoyable time devouring our ice cream and catching up on each other's lives. My go-to is some combination of a scoop of butter pecan, one of chocolate chip, and / or one of cookie dough; they're pretty basic, but they're also pretty delicious.

[oh clumpies. my 15-year-old self cannot get enough of you]

During my time in Chattanooga, Mama Ellen and Papa Ken invited me along on their traditional Saturday evening outing to Mary's Lounge. Mary's is a dark, hole-in-the-wall bar on McCallie Avenue, and Ken and Ellen are part of a group who get together every few weeks for beer and catfish sandwiches. I happened to be in town during one such get-together, so I tagged along. I'm not big on beer so I opted for a Straw-ber-Rita, but the real winner of the day was the catfish plate. I got two huge pieces of catfish, fries, and bread, and it was amazing. I thoroughly enjoyed getting to meet some of the Ken and Ellen's friends, and I very much enjoyed my catfish.

When I finalized my travel plans and told Steph that I would be staying with her parents in Chattanooga for a few days, she responded with only one thing: GROCERY STORE TACOS. From then on, in the weeks leading up to my visit, every message or email I received from her mentioned in some way, shape, or form the necessity of making Mama Ellen and Papa Ken take me for grocery store tacos. According to Steph, they were delicious and not to be missed, and because we're all a little scared of her, we made sure to stop by on Saturday evening. The store is called Carniceria #7 [because number 7 is always lucky], and it's your regular Mexican grocery store that also has a taco bar in the back. I opted for the carnitas tacos, and they were finger-licking delicious. So if you ever find yourself in Chattanooga, make sure you try out some of those grocery store tacos.

[grocery store tacos are the best tacos]

Lupi's was one of my staples during my Baylor days, and I love stopping by if I have time whenever I am back in the city. Located downtown, it was a perfect place to stop by before heading to a movie or if we generally didn't have much else to do. This time around I went there for dinner on Sunday evening, and somehow I managed to miss the crowd. The pizzas are still awesome, as is the salad, and no matter how old I get, I'll never be tall enough to see the drinks fountain properly, but that is half the charm. In the 16 years that I have been eating there, it's not changed one bit, and for that I am eternally grateful.

While I was in town, I got to catch up with James Scott, one of my old Baylor classmates. He just moved with his wife and son to Glasgow for postgraduate work, but he was still in town when I was, so we managed to find time for a lunch at the Honest Pint. It's an Irish pub on the south end of downtown, and we had a very enjoyable lunch over some delicious food. We started with Pomme Tots, tater tots fried in duck fat and served with a trio of sauces. Finger-licking good is really the only way to describe them. We also shared some potato skins, which were equally good, and for the main course we each had a boxty, a traditional Irish pancake. I can't remember which one James had, but I went with the pulled pork, and it was fantastic. The interior of the place was very cool as well, and I hear mumblings that there is live music on the weekends. But be warned, I have a feeling it is a place that allows smoking in the evenings, so be prepared for that.

In other ice cream news, the Ice Cream Show was also a big hit. It's located right at the south entrance of the walking bridge, so I stopped by for a cone before taking a stroll across the river. The options are pretty much limitless, and at this point I really don't remember what I ordered, although I'm pretty sure chocolate with M&Ms is a pretty good guess. Whatever it was, it was delicious, and I probably looked like a giddy 7-year-old as I walked across the bridge licking on that cone. They have a great-looking patio as well, and judging by the people hanging out with laptops, they appear to have free Wi-Fi, too.

One of my favourite stops in Chattanooga was Grocery Bar in the Southside, where I had dinner with Joli and Yogi. It's pretty much exactly what it sounds like, a grocery store with already-prepared meals as well as a buffet that allows you to pick and choose what you want and then pay by the weight. It was great because we could each make our own plate of whatever we wanted, we could also pick up some chips and guacamole to share, and we could bring our own wine to enjoy on the patio. All of the food is prepared fresh daily, and it was all delicious. Joli had sushi while Yogi and I each prepared our own plates, and we had ourselves a nice little picnic, sitting and chatting for hours. Meals with Joli and Yogi tend to last for a while, and I loved not feeling rushed or like we were preventing others from being able to eat. It just opened in July, but I continue to see stories about it online, so it appears to be doing pretty well. And it was perfect for me, as it was about a 3-minute walk from Ellen and Ken's house. Definitely check this one out if you are in town.

And now we arrive at my favourite, Typhoon of Tokyo. Typhoon is about a 10-minute drive from Baylor and is a staple for all Red Raiders, especially seniors who have short lunch leaves or for boarders who need a quick meal before heading back to campus. When I was in school, they knew me by sight and over the phone, and I was well taken care of. Typhoon is essentially fast-food Japanese, hibachi steak [or chicken or veggies, etc] without the hibachi. It's cheap and it's tasty and the portions are huge, all perfect things for a boarding student surviving on $20 a week. And then there is the legendary white sauce, the yummy delicious sauce you can spread over your food or use to clean your pennies [who discovered that, I'll never know, but it's a bit of a legend]. Once upon a time I could finish the entire meal, but alas, my stomach is no longer 16 years old. Typhoon is my one constant staple, the place I will always be sure to visit whenever I am in town, and it is just as great today as it was when I first ate there in the fall of 1998.

[that's the stuff right there]

ASHEVILLE, NC

Mela was perfect timing for me. I was beginning to miss and crave Indian food by this point in my trip, and not one but two people recommended it to me in the 10 days before I arrived in Asheville. All signs pointed to me needing to try it out, so try it I did. And the entire experience was fantastic. The ambience was super trendy [note: not a place I usually go to, but I liked it], and I had a great seat at the bar. I read my book and enjoyed my mango lassi while I waited for my meal, a veg thali with extra roti on the side. And from the first sighting of my meal to the last bite I was able to force into my overly-stuffed stomach, the only word that kept coming back to me was "wow", running over and over in my head. I know I've used the word delicious so much at this point that it seems to have lost its meaning, but there are no other words to describe this meal. There was enough food to feed at least 3 people, and I was so stuffed after getting through about one-third of it that I had to walk for 20 minutes after dinner and do a 30-minute workout later that night before I could sleep. But trust me when I say that the discomfort was totally and completely worth it, and I would do it again in a heartbeat. Thank you, Avni Didi and Andrea, for the suggestion; you ladies know your food!

[i still sometimes dream about this meal]

The other double-recommendation I received was for Early Girl Eatery, a self-professed "Farm to Table Southern Comfort Food Experience". I went to Early Girl after visiting the Biltmore, and it was perfect: it was pretty empty since it was late afternoon, so I could put up my feet and relax with my book and some good food. Although the breakfasts [served all day] looked tempting, I ultimately opted for the "Meat & Two" option which allows you to choose one protein and two vegetables. I chose the grilled pork loin with sides of applesauce and macaroni & cheese. All were delicious, and I loved my meal. On my next trip, however, I'm definitely trying one of the breakfast options.

I realized just how well Britney knows me when I stepped inside Chocolate Fetish to have a look around. Chocolate Fetish offers case after case of homemade chocolates, something for everyone, and I could easily have stayed in there for days. The girl who helped me was extremely informative, and she talked me through the different chocolates on display to help me decide which ones I wanted. I filled up a box with assorted regular and dark chocolates, and I managed to bring the box almost entirely intact back to Memphis to share with my parents. And it was a big hit. Go to there if you're in Asheville, and then send some back to me.

[i'm pretty proud that i made it back to memphis with this box mostly intact]

My last meal in Asheville was at 12 Bones Smokehouse for some Carolina BBQ. According to Britney, 12 Bones is where President Obama eats when he's in Asheville, so obviously I had to check it out for myself. I went around 1pm, so the line out the front door wasn't too long, and I managed to snag a small table for myself as soon as I ordered. I had a pulled pork sandwich with baked beans and possibly green beans [hey, it's been 2 months, give me a break] as my sides. The sandwich was pretty good, as were the sides, and I enjoyed the mustard sauce more than I anticipated. And I especially loved the space -- it's in an open warehouse in the River Arts District, with tables inside or benches on a covered patio, so you can sit wherever you like.

NASHVILLE, TN

On my way back to Memphis, I stopped for a night in Nashville to break up my journey and to hang out with Lindsay, Steve, and baby Evelyn. Since it was such a short trip, I sent a message to my Nashville friends to come to the Jackalope Taproom for a drink. Lindsay and Evelyn went with me, and Natasha and Natalie - and later Catherine - met us there. It was a beautiful late afternoon, and we enjoyed the lovely weather out on the patio with a few beers. I love Jackalope for a number of reasons: I love supporting my friends, I love supporting local businesses, and I especially love the laid back feel of the taproom. If you find yourself in Nashville, make your way over there and have a beer [Red Rompo is my favourite]. And feel free to take a tour as well! [more of my thoughts on Jackalope here]

[friends enjoying the jackalope patio]

Looking back over this list, it's no wonder I put on a few pounds in those 5 weeks. But they were totally worth it.
xx

veen on the road: the books.

Come on, you know you weren't going to get through a road trip update without hearing about the books I read and listened to along the way. In total I read two-and-a-half books [I started Americanah right before wedding weekend but didn't get fully immersed in it until after I returned from my trip] and listened to four more while on the road, and today I share my thoughts on each with you.

The Graveyard Book [written and read by Neil Gaiman]. We all know how much I love me some Neil Gaiman audiobooks. I love what his voice brings to his stories, I love some of the added inflections, and I especially love the musical accompaniments that are included between chapters. For the start of my 5-week road trip I began with The Graveyard Book on audio, and I finished it somewhere between Fallston and Greensboro, NC.

The Graveyard Book tells the story of Nobody Owens - affectionately known as Bod - who wanders into the graveyard as a toddler on the night his parents and elder sister are murdered, unknowingly escaping The Man Jack who wants to kill him as well. Bod is able to communicate with both the living and the dead in his graveyard, and as a baby he is granted the freedom of the graveyard but is not allowed outside its gates, where his life is sill in danger.

Bod is officially raised by Master and Mistress Owens, long-time residents of the graveyard, but it is from Silas, his guardian and a Hound of God, that he gains his knowledge. Silas sees to it that he is fed and protected and educated, and he answers Bod's questions about his history and the world around him as simply and as honestly as he can.

As Bod grows into a teenager, it becomes more and more apparent that The Man Jack is still out there, seeking to find and kill Bod. With each chapter, the climax of the story inches closer and closer, and with Gaiman's storytelling, it's both suspenseful and exciting. I loved listening to this one, and I would love to read the book itself somewhere down the line.

Real Happy Family [Caeli Wolfson Widger]. As an Amazon Prime member and Kindle owner, I get a free download at the beginning of every month of a book that is slated to be released the following month. It's a really cool offer, but there have been very few books that I've actually downloaded. I got this one a few months ago, mostly because it was free, and read it while I was in Winston-Salem and Charlotte. I didn't love it, but it was a fast read.

The story of a wannabe actress and model who thinks she's more talented than she is, her overbearing mother who is trying to relive her youth through her daughter, her father who is just trying to get through life, and her brother and sister-in-law who are trying to help but have their own problems to deal with shows you the seedier and less rosy side to Hollywood, where it's tough to break into the limelight, and it's often who you know rather than how talented - or not talented - you are. Because of the setting, most of the characters, especially Lorelei and her mother, are shallow and rather vapid. Not really my scene.

If you're looking for a fast, mindless read, check this one out, but it's not going to set the world on fire. I very likely would not have read it if it hadn't been free.

Bossypants [written and read by Tina Fey]. I read Tina Fey's book a few years ago while I was living in Little Rock, but I downloaded the audio version for my drive through the Blue Ridge Mountains, and I am so glad that I did. Fey reads the book herself, and hearing her voice read those stories of her awkward childhood left a pretty steady grin on my face throughout the entire book.

Fey talks about growing up in Pennsylvania, fighting for a spot with the Second City troupe in Chicago, becoming Saturday Night Live's first female writer, and eventually pitching her own show to NBC, and through all of her stories her originality and humor shine through. I loved listening to this book, and it inspired me to re-watch all of 30 Rock [I just finished in mid-September. what a great show]. I very highly recommend this as a read or a listen, or even both. I promise you won't be disappointed.

This Is Where I Leave You [Jonathan Tropper]. I picked this one up on a whim after seeing the trailer for the movie full of a cast I am mildly obsessed with, and I read it while I was in Richmond and Chattanooga. It was a quick read, and I sped through it in about a week, which is coincidentally the amount of time in which the book takes place.

Narrated by Judd [played by Jason Bateman in the movie], This is Where I Leave You tells the story of the Foxman family [changed to "Altman" in the film]. The mother and 4 children reunite following the father's death, and all are required to stay with each other under the same roof for 7 days as per the old man's dying wish. Dysfunctional doesn't even begin to cover this family, and as we move through the days of the Foxman family learning to live together again and like each other, Judd also fills in the backstory of how they all ended up the way they are.

The book is at turns funny and dramatic, and it always has the underlying tone that no matter how far you go, you can never quite escape your family or where you came from. I liked the book on the whole, but it was a rare case of the book actually diluting my interest for seeing the film, rather than the other way around. From reading the book and then re-watching the trailer for the film, it appears that while it loosely follows the book, there are lots of things that are changed around. Also, the book involves quite a lot of Judd's inner monologue as he explores his own life [wife cheated on him with his boss; he quit his job; living in a basement apartment; etc] and struggles to rediscover his place in the world, and I'm unsure of how that will translate to film.

Let's be honest, I will probably still see the film, because I love that cast, but I am trying very hard to distance the film from the book so that I can judge them as two separate entities. Wish me luck, and perhaps I will let you all know what I think of the movie once I see it.

The Secret of the Old Clock [written by Carolyn Keene; read by Laura Linney]. I straight up loved Nancy Drew when I was a kid. I loved following her mysteries and trying to solve the puzzles right along with her, and I am now building collections of her books for Evelyn in Nashville and for Nilah and Evika in Bangalore so they can enjoy them as well. It's made me a little nostalgic for the stories of my childhood, so I decided to listen to one of the books while I was on the road.

The Secret of the Old Clock is the first of the original mysteries, and in it we meet Nancy Drew, all-around awesome 16-year-old who has a great penchant for solving mysteries. In this particular story, she is on the hunt for a hidden will so that a man's rightful heirs can have access to his estate. We follow Nancy as she meets characters both nice and evil, hunts down clues that will lead to the will, and eventually solves the case.

It was definitely interesting to re-visit this series as an adult. I still love the stories, and I still get just as caught up in them as I used to, but there are lots of little quirks that I couldn't help but giggle at. The language, for one, as well as the descriptions of the clothes and hair. Additionally, I couldn't help but marvel at some of the things Nancy does in the name of sleuthing, including trespassing, breaking and entering, and some pretty obvious obstruction of justice. Now, I know these were written in the 1930s and reworked in the 50s, so these were not necessarily concerns at the time of publication, but I definitely picked up on little things like that as an adult in 2014. Nonetheless, I thoroughly enjoyed my little jaunt down memory lane and have since listened to the next two books in the series. At only 3 hours each, they go by quickly.

Let's Explore Diabetes With Owls [written and read by David Sedaris]. I have read and loved all of David Sedaris' books over the years, but this one brought a slight departure for me: rather than read it, I listened to it while on the road. Because Sedaris reads the stories himself, they take on an entirely new shape, and I love the dimension that it adds. His voice sounds pretty much exactly how I always thought it would, and to hear him tell the stories of his childhood or his travels is truly a delight.

This is the general Sedaris tome, full of stories of his dysfunctional family and his life traveling and living with his partner Hugh, but to hear him tell it makes it even more poignant and entertaining.

An added element that I loved: for a few of the stories, rather than playing the studio version, it was a recording of Sedaris reading the story in front of an audience. It was great to feel like I was a part of the audience and to laugh along with them, and I liked that it was always a surprise when one of the stories was presented in that way.

So there you have it. Have you read or listened to any of these books? I rather like the idea of listening to fun books like Tina Fey's after I've read them in print, and I am generally always a fan of the author reading his or her own work.

Any new book recommendations floating around out there for me?
xx

veen on the road: the thomas wolfe memorial.

I had some time to kill between checking out of my hotel in Asheville and reporting to Yesterday Spaces in Leicester [about 30 minutes outside town] for wedding duties, so I decided to swing by and check out the Thomas Wolfe Memorial.

Located near downtown, the boardinghouse that Wolfe's mother ran throughout his childhood is now open for tours. Adjacent to the home is a small museum that holds artifacts from Wolfe's life and houses a theater that shows a film about Wolfe.

Being early on a Thursday in August, there was no one else in the museum when I arrived. I arranged to take a tour and then strolled through the exhibit about Wolfe's life and work. I really didn't know anything about Thomas Wolfe going into my visit, so the whole thing was pretty educational.

It only took about 20-30 minutes to walk through the exhibit, after which I watched a film that brought to life much of what I had just read and seen. It talks about Wolfe's childhood in Asheville, his unhappy family life, and his adolescent exploits in college and later in New York City.

When I emerged from the theater, I was notified that no one else had signed up for a tour, so I got a one-on-one tour through the house. Pretty cool, if I do say so myself. Wolfe's mother bought and ran a boardinghouse when Wolfe was a young boy, and he spent his childhood and adolescence in and out of the home. It is still set up in the much the way it would have been back then, and because I was the only person on the tour, I got a lot of extra tidbits and details that you might not get in a larger group [at least, that's what I like to tell myself].

It was certainly an interesting visit, and I loved learning things I didn't previously know. I am definitely interested in reading some of his work now that I have visited the home in which he grew up. Any suggestions?

If you're interested in visiting:

• located at 52 North Market Street, Asheville, NC 28801
• tours are only $5. well worth it, in my opinion
• October is apparently Thomas Wolfe Month! check out their website for further details
• if you live in Asheville, a Thomas Wolfe Book Club is beginning in January 2015! check the website if you are interested

And so wraps up my individual posts from my road trip. It's taken us a few months to get to this point, but I think I finally got all of it posted. I've got a few more posts in the works, including my favourite eats from the road as well as the books I read and listened to while I was away; those will hopefully be finished and published next week. It was such a great trip, and I have loved reliving it and remembering tiny details as I've been writing these posts, and I can only hope they have been marginally entertaining for you as well.

And now on to suggestions for posts now that this adventure is finally coming to a close!

xx

veen on the road: the biltmore estate.

We have finally arrived at my final stop and penultimate individualized post from my time on the road! I know, I didn't think we would get here, either. But here we are nonetheless.

And what a place, too. The Biltmore Estate. The granddaddy of US estates. The end-all-be-all of mansions.

[the biltmore]

While most of the places I visited on the road were somewhat spontaneous decisions or suggestions from along the way, the Biltmore was the one I had on my list from the beginning. I have been wanting to visit the Biltmore for years, and now I finally had my opportunity.

Biltmore was constructed as the country estate of George Vanderbilt - yes, as in that Vanderbilt family - between 1889 and 1895. It is an absolutely massive building, boasting nearly 250 rooms, including 35 bedrooms, 43 bathrooms, and 65 fireplaces.

[looking out from the front steps of the house]

But it's not just the mansion. Yes, it's stunning, but it is even more so because of its surroundings. With sweeping views of Asheville and the mountains, and surrounded by meticulously maintained gardens and wineries, I would venture that it is one of the most scenic spots in the country. And today the house and grounds are open year-round to visitors.

I gave myself the entire day to spend on the grounds, and I am so happy that I did. I was in no rush and could spend as much time as I wanted wherever I wanted, and except for a light drizzle early in the afternoon, the weather was stunning.

[close-up of the front of the house]

The tour of the house itself was spectacular. I paid the extra $10 for the audio guide, and I thought it was well worth the spend. I learned so much about the history of the Vanderbilt family and about the home itself. For example, did you know that one of the rooms inside the Biltmore was used to store the most valuable and priceless works of art from Washington DC during World War II? True story. Regardless of whether or not you opt for the audio tour, visitors are free to take their time going through the house and seeing everything on display.

I especially loved the huge dining hall and spent some time imagining throwing a fantastic dinner party for all of my favourite friends. I also thoroughly enjoyed the back "porch" - it's really so much more than just a porch - and I really, really wanted to curl up on one of the benches out there and just stare for a while, but all of the signs telling me it wasn't allowed kind of dissuaded me.

[the house and front lawn from way up high]

Walking up the giant front staircase was pretty awesome, as was exploring the upstairs halls and bedrooms, but I was particularly fascinated by the basement exhibits. I loved walking through the pantries and kitchen [once a foodie, always a foodie] and imagining the schedule and routine that would have gone into running the household [not gonna lie, I definitely had a few Downton Abbey moments while I was down there].

And I was completely fascinated by the pool. Completely indoor and constructed in the basement, it's now empty, but you can easily imagine what it would look like all filled up. It's one of those old-school pools with white tiles all around, and it goes from shallow down to super deep really fast. I bet it would have been awesome to swim in at night with just a few dim lights on.

[the greenhouse in the main garden]

So as you can tell, I loved the house. It was amazing and spectacular and fascinating. It's got so many nooks and crannies that you could wander around and get hopelessly lost but probably find some really cool things.

But we're not done yet. That's only my visit to the house.

The general admission ticket also allows you to tour the gardens, so that's what I did next. The road through Biltmore only goes one way, so as you leave the mansion area, you end up near one of the gardens. You can drive straight through, or you can park and wander around. There are numerous trails you can take to see more gardens as well as a few ponds scattered throughout the estate. Because the weather was beginning to look slightly unpredictable, I opted to just stay in the central garden where there was a greenhouse and a few gazebos to offer shelter should I need it.

[gazebo]

The garden was awesome, and it was pretty empty [very welcome after the crowds in the house], so I spend some time walking around and taking photos until I determined it was time to move on.

From there I continued following the road until I found myself in Antler Hill Village, home of some shops, restaurants, and the winery. I managed to sneak my way onto the winery tour that was just getting ready to leave, and while the tour was great, the tasting at the end was my favourite part. The tasting room is absolutely huge, and each person over the age of 21 is given a list of all the wines that are made at the Biltmore. You can choose to taste as many or as few of the wines as you want, and prices for the bottles are included should you decide to stop in the attached gift shop to purchase a bottle or two.

[walking through]

I tasted about 5 of the wines before heading into the gift shop. I purchased 3 bottles - a Malbec, a House Merlot that is only available for purchase at the winery, and one other that I can't currently remember - in addition to some chocolates and a few other knick-knacks before heading out.

All told I think I spent about 5 hours on the grounds. I could easily have spent more and taken time to walk some of the trails through the gardens, but that was pretty solid for my first visit. Plus my snacks had run out and I was ready for a late lunch.

[pretty flowers in the gardens. i'm trying to convince my mother we should grow these at the house]

Everything you have heard and read about the Biltmore is absolutely, 100% true: it's gorgeous, it's grand, it's scenic, it's amazing, it's majestic, etc etc etc. I can't even fully describe the feeling of walking those halls and dreaming of what it would have been like a hundred years ago. If you have never been, there is no better time than the present. It was great in the summer, but I imagine it's even better right now, with fall in full bloom and the leaves an array of magnificent colours. And I've heard great stories of the estate at Christmas, decorated to the nines for the holiday season. The entire Asheville area is well worth a visit, but this is the crown jewel of the town.

Go there. Now:

• located at 1 Lodge Street, Asheville, NC 28803
• a general admission daytime ticket gets you access to the house, the gardens, antler hill village, an exhibition about the Vanderbilt family, and a free tour and tasting [for those over 21] in the winery. same-day tickets are $59 for adults and $29.50 for children 10-16, but if you buy your tickets in advance you'll get a discount. the further ahead you buy your tickets, the higher your discount, so plan ahead! [I learned this from Rachel over at Hippie in Heels and so purchased my ticket a few days in advance and saved $5. thank you, Rachel!]
• audio guides are an additional $10 and are, in my opinion, well worth the extra spend, particularly if you are interested in learning in-depth about the history of the home
• there are additional tours - including a butler's tour - that you can choose to do, but I decided I had enough on my plate for one day
• no photography allowed inside the house but feel free to take photos throughout the grounds
• visit in the fall or during the holidays if you can; I imagine it'll be beautiful during that time of year
• there is food available outside the mansion as well as in antler hill village, but as per usual with food at attractions, it appeared to be pretty pricey. I carried water and a few snacks with me in the morning, and those sustained me until I was ready to leave in mid-afternoon.
• wear comfortable shoes. you'll be doing a lot of walking.
• if possible, give yourself 5-7 hours on the grounds. the house itself will take you between 1.5-2 hours, especially if you pick up the audio guide.
• fun fact: for anyone who has ever seen Richie Rich, the fountain and exterior of the home were used in the movie. remember all those bubbles in the fountain? yep, this is the one.

If you enjoy pretty homes, history, scenic surroundings, gardens, or wine, you will love the Biltmore.

xx

veen on the road: chattanooga's walking bridge.

One of my favourite spots in Chattanooga is the downtown Walnut Street Pedestrian Bridge.

[all lit up and glowing]

Built in 1891 as a roadway, the bridge was declared to be not structurally sound toward the end of the 1900s and was slated to be torn down. After some uproar from the local citizens, the bridge was saved and renovated into a walking bridge to connect downtown to the north shore of the city. Not only is it an easy and scenic way to get from one side of the river to the other, but it has helped to revitalize both sides, paving the way for new parks, restaurants, and shops to grow and thrive.

[view of downtown chattanooga by night]

The bridge - the world's longest pedestrian bridge, fyi - is used by hundreds and probably thousands of people each day: Chattanoogans and visitors alike use it for walking, jogging, cycling, and even taking their dogs for a stroll.

[and this is what it looks like during the day. just stunning]

I got to venture across the bridge twice while I was in town, once on Friday night after getting ice cream with Will and again on Monday afternoon after visiting the Aquarium. I loved getting to experience it both at night and during the day, because Chattanooga is beautiful at any hour, and it serves as a great reminder of what a gorgeous city it really is.

Oh, Chattanooga. How I love thee.
xx